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DANVILLE'S new Rose Garden shopping center is the latest showcase for gussied-up Mexican. Amaranta's "mod Mex" approach pairs a refreshing contemporary aesthetic with traditional cuisine. The 6-week-old restaurant takes its name from amaranth, a staple grain of the Aztecs. Amaranta comes from the Resmex Group, a collection of eight restaurants, four of which are located in San Jose's Santana Row. Resmex is owned by Sylvia and Eduardo Rallo, two natives of Cuernavaca, who met at Harvard.
"The menu features the familiar and native," says chef de cuisine Ismael de Gante. The presentation and surroundings, however, bring a fresh zip to traditional Mexican flavors.
In that spirit, guacamole is prepared tableside and served with homemade tortillas. Gante says the most popular entrees are the Enchiladas de Mole Poblano and the Tacos de Pescado al Pastor, white fish with grilled pineapple relish.
Amaranta's design shuns the poncho and sombrero decor of old, while vivid color spikes and artfully placed cacti maintain a Mexican sensibility. Checkerboard shelving contains a massive tequila selection above a long black bar. Ball-shaped light fixtures and seashell window coverings add subtle oceanic accents. White walls and honey brown woods feel almost Scandinavian.
Despite cars zooming by, the spacious patio is a big draw. Live music and comfy couches encourage leisurely encounters with Amaranta's popular
On the outside corner of Amaranta is a "to go store," and close freeway access makes this an easy spot for 680 commuters to pick up dinner.
Those who were disappointed about last month's closing of Lafayette's the Patio can find chef/owner Marcelo Abusada working here as a sous chef.
Amaranta, the Rose Garden, 710 Camino Ramon, Danville, 925-406-4032, www.amarantarestaurant.com.
SAN RAMON LOSES TWO FAVORITES: Cafe Esin closed its doors in San Ramon last week. After a well-earned vacation, owners Curtis and Esin deCarion will reemerge in late July with the opening of a new Cafe Esin in Danville, just across from Amaranta.
A cool feature of the new space will be an exhibition dessert station that is incorporated into the bar. Guests can watch the plating of Esin's Bon Appetit-featured banana cream pie. With 32 shaded seats outside, Cafe Esin should be packed on hot August nights.
And I'm sorry to report that Mudd's closed last week. This San Ramon restaurant has been well-loved for its relaxing country atmosphere and lush gardens. With several private rooms and heated outdoor patios, it was a particularly inviting spot for showers and receptions.
"Twenty-seven years was a long and rewarding run," says owner John Ebert. "We often lamented that our remote countrylike location that made us so special and unique was also our greatest liability — too far off the beaten path, that many simply forgot about us."
Ebert put the San Ramon property up for sale late last year, but then took it off the market. Robert Eustaquio took over the kitchen just over six months ago, with visions of showcasing the on-site garden. Mudd's was one of the very first to really use organic produce, just a few years behind Chez Panisse.
A slew of impressive chefs made their way through the restaurant. Some of the more notable were Patrick Schoolcraft (Patrick David's in Danville), David Gingrass (Two in San Francisco, and the just unveiled 25˚ Brix in Napa), and Jeff Madura (John Ash & Company in Santa Rosa, though his last day is July 31). Let's hope a new owner will appreciate Mudd's history and charm.
A FRESH MOLT: Lafayette Park Hotel's Duck Club is looking quite spiffy after a spring remodel. San Francisco restaurant designer Bob Puccini modernized the old country-clubbish dining room, while keeping a feel consistent with the rest of the hotel.
The revamped space keeps the duck-themed murals, but is fresh with olive and army- green plaid carpet, handmade Italian wallpaper, Pullman-style tables and two new bare circular tables.
Executive chef Chuck Courtney has fleshed out a solid new menu featuring modern American cuisine. Entrees include grilled lamb chops with peas, favas, corn and Israeli couscous; and an Alaskan halibut saltimbocca with olives and artichoke puree. An expanded California wine selection is now housed in a walk-in cellar at the restaurant's entrance.
Duck Club at Lafayette Park Hotel, 3287 Mt. Diablo Blvd., Lafayette, 925-283-7108, www.lafayetteparkhotel.com.
WHAT'S ON THE MENU? Writing of my unfamiliarity with the onionlike ramp last month struck an unexpected nerve, as several readers wrote with similar experiences. So I thought I'd tackle a new term each column.
Rajas: The word "rajas" is Spanish for "strips," but in Mexican cooking, it refers to strips of chiles. The chiles are roasted, peeled, and cut into strips. They are normally sauteed with onions and herbs and used as a condiment with meats or as a vegetable side dish.
Where to find rajas:
MY 15 PERCENT: Branding experts are fretting that the term du jour — organic — has grown trite and tired. I have a similar concern as I cover Bay Area restaurants. I worry that readers will gloss over the words "seasonal," "local" and "organic" because of their overuse. Other Bay Area food writers are also struggling with this issue.
Though these words may be wilting on paper, their value is not. Organic, local and seasonal ingredients speak to the chef's priorities as well as the menu's freshness and quality. They are the primary elements of our unique food culture and worth highlighting. So please forgive the overuse, but know that these words are used with care.
Reach East Bay food writer Chrissa Ventrelle at cventrel@hotmail.com.
