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WITH ONLY a staycation on the books, a late lunch at the new Fiore Restaurant in Concord felt like a true getaway. This gem of a restaurant transcends its Kmart strip mall location, making it well worth the trek down Ygnacio Valley Road.
The former cafe is a now a warm space of white linens and soft yellows, punctuated by a dark bar that runs along much of the room. Through an archway is the semiprivate "red room," where chef/owner Habib Jacifi seats all first-date couples, hoping the seductive artwork will lead to a match. Out front, a few tables are ripe for summer seating.
Last week, a friend and I visited the five-week-old restaurant, savoring the langostino (griddled rock shrimp cakes with lemon aioli); a just-right heirloom tomato caprese salad; and a beautifully prepared halibut. Jacifi puts a lot of heart into presentation, adorning plates with zags of balsamic vinegar or polka dots of olive oil.
His favorite dish is the risotto pescatore made from Arborio rice, clams, mussels, tiger shrimp, a fish of the day, and tomatoes. "I could never take that off the menu," Jacifi says.
Living just a mile from the restaurant, Jacifi is convinced that there is a market for a better meal — especially brunch — in this stretch of Concord. He calls his menu "Italian fusion," though it may more accurately be described as an Italian menu pocked with a few non-Italian dishes, such as a Moroccan-style
Part of Fiore's appeal is the likability of Jacifi. The 25-year-old knows how to hustle. Prior to opening Fiore, the Moroccan native earned his EMT license, waited tables at Left Bank and cooked at Nibblers in Pleasant Hill — all at the same time. He banked the money he earned as a server to open Fiore, quitting only the day before his restaurant's opening.
Jacifi comes from a family passionate about food. His cousin and brother are handling the front of Fiore, leaving him and the dishwasher to cover the kitchen. His uncle owns Luna Ristorante, also in Concord. Fiore is a solid example of what makes small, chef-owned restaurants so special. During my interview with Jacifi, he recited each table's order from a few nights earlier, diving into a brief explanation of each dish.
Guests facing the kitchen may notice Jacifi poking his head out eagerly from time to time to check on the dining room. His earnestness is one reason that patrons are back for their second and third visits, happy to enjoy a relaxing meal, regardless of the strip mall outside. Fiore, 5100 Clayton Road, No. A14, Concord, 925-969-1887.
Meet me at the Clock Bar: Michael Mina's first cocktail lounge, Clock Bar, was set to open Tuesday at San Francisco's Westin St. Francis Hotel. Manning the bar is Marco Dionysos, formerly of Tres Agaves. He's using modern methods to pour classically inspired and vintage drinks, helping to keep some old-time favorites off the endangered species list.
Many cocktails on the menu, such as the Americano and the Aviation, come with a taste of history. The Americano is an Italian drink circa 1860, and the Aviation was born during the Depression. Cocktail and food pairings are designed by chef Chris L'Hommedieu. With the Americano, for example, he pairs truffle popcorn. With a Cardenal Mendoza Sidecar, he suggests steamed bouchot mussels.
The space is designed to convey warmth and elegance. The bar borrows its name from the famous magenta grandfather clock in the main lobby, a central meeting place since 1907. Clock Bar at the Westin St. Francis, 335 Powell St, San Francisco, 415-354-2735, www.westinstfrancisco.com/clock_bar.cfm.
Water Lounge: Rockridge has a new watering hole. When Rockridge's shiny Pearl Oyster Bar started losing its luster, owner Rick Tyler was ready for a change. He went for less restaurant and a lot more lounge with last month's opening of Water Lounge. Water Lounge's first focus is on cocktails. Look for clear flavors and simple variations on classic three-part drinks with an emphasis on housemade tinctures. Rather than rely on amaretto, for example, they've made an almond tincture for a more pure taste.
"Though the meat of the business is definitely a loungy sort of thing, we still have enough of a menu that people can eat dinner, but without the linen napkins," says general manager Michaela Gardner, who described the menu as "nice bar food." Early Yelp reviewers are generally pleased with the kitchen, including those who came expecting to find Pearl there.
Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays bring $1 oysters from the raw bar until 7 p.m. The compact menu offers small plates such as bay scallops ceviche and chilled asparagus. A fried Cornish game hen is a popular coronary punishment for nonseafood lovers. The redesigned space is sleek with a color changing bar and lounge style seating. They've got a disc jockey spinning several nights a week as well as classic movie viewings. Water Lounge, 5634 College Ave., Oakland, 510-654-5426, www.waterloungeoakland.com.
Hanging with the cowgirls: Here is a cool day trip for turophiles, the brainy term for cheese lovers. As of last week, Cowgirl Creamery began offering tours on Thursdays from 11:30 to 12:30 at its new Petaluma creamery. Thirty dollars buys a guided tour, demonstration, tasting, and a sampler goody bag. Several Thursdays are already booked, so don't delay in making an online reservation. The poor man's tour is at the original Pt. Reyes Station creamery, housed in a renovated hay barn. This tour is just $3, but people happily plunk down the difference at the retail store and the Cowgirl Cantina. Cowgirl Creamery, 419 First St., Petaluma, 866-433-7834, www.cowgirlcreamery.com/tours.asp.
What's on the menu? Speck. Should speck show up on your charcuterie plate, take a closer look. Speck is a slightly smoked variety of cured ham that is less pungent than pancetta and more flavorful than prosciutto. The real stuff hails from the Trentino Alto Adige region of Italy and has a Protected Geographic Indication (as do Champagne or Kobe beef). Speck Alto Adige has been available in the United States only since 2004.
Where to try speck:
My 15 percent: Good karma found its way to chef owner Rodney Worth of Danville's the Peasant and the Pear. Diablo Magazine readers picked him as the 2008 best chef of the East Bay. The honor is wonderful, but what impresses me most about Worth is the stack of fulfilled charity donation requests on his desk. Worth and his family are deeply invested in the San Ramon Valley. In return, he enjoys a loyal base of customers who appreciate both his cooking and his dedication to local schools and charities. Of course, the Peasant and the Pear is not alone in its generosity. I try to support restaurants that I've noticed give big, always letting a manager know that I appreciate their investment.
Reach East Bay food writer Chrissa Ventrelle at cventrel@hotmail.com.
